Großvenediger (3,657 m), South Route, 1999
Report
27 August – 2 September 1999
On 27 August 1999, Ossi, Moal, Ferdl and Ferdl’s father-in-law Ludwig set off in the early afternoon for East Tyrol – more precisely, for Hinterbichl in the Virgental. Our goal was the Großvenediger. The Venediger is the fourth highest peak in Austria and the main summit of the Venediger Group, which covers more than a third of the area of the Hohe Tauern National Park. On arrival, given the advanced hour, we made use of the Venediger Taxi – not out of laziness – and covered the approximately 780 vertical metres to the Johannishütte (2,121 m) on four wheels. After a somewhat bumpy ride on the only partially paved dirt road, we arrived comfortably after about 30 minutes. Here began the roughly three-hour ascent to the Defreggerhaus (2,963 m), passing through a very scenic, wild high-alpine landscape – at first dominated by typical alpine flora, then increasingly by bare rock formations, all framed by blue-grey glacial masses.
At last the hut appeared on the horizon. On arrival we claimed our bunks and then sat comfortably together in the common room to refuel and review the plan for the next day. Only the mandatory lights-out at 10 PM broke up the convivial gathering. A note worth bearing in mind: it is advisable to reserve places by phone in advance, as the Defreggerhaus is frequently fully booked.
Early the next morning, after breakfast, the group set off in perfect weather conditions and high spirits towards the Venediger. First we climbed a good quarter of an hour over scree to the Mullwitzaderl, where we roped up and stepped onto the glacier. A long traverse, then up the moderately steep Flake to the Rainertörl, and on to the fore-summit of the Venediger – a three-hour slog across the Mullwitzkees. At the glaciated fore-summit we met several other roped parties who had set off before us. The summit cross itself, however, could only be reached via the approximately 200-metre long, very narrow and exposed summit ridge. Ludwig decided against this final thrill – though he, just like the rest of us, was rewarded with an equally magnificent and truly remarkable view. It was bitterly cold that day, but the sky was only moderately cloudy and the visibility was gigantic!
The return journey was as straightforward as expected, and we arrived back safely at the Defreggerhaus shortly after midday. Over one beer or another, Ludwig emphasised repeatedly that this tour represented the crowning achievement of his mountaineering life – and after that wonderful day, we could only agree with him.
After a further night at the Defreggerhaus, we set out once more across the Mullwitzkees – without Ludwig – to climb the Rainerhorn. Unfortunately the entire glacier and summits were shrouded in cloud that morning and visibility was zero. We took it in good spirits and enjoyed it nonetheless. After Ludwig rejoined us, we began the descent. The approximately 1,700 metres down to Hinterbichl, combined with the now-cleared and sunny summer day, noticeably raised the temperature inside our mountain boots. After the obligatory closing beer and a hot meal, all the exertion was forgotten.
At its core, the Venediger tour is in fine weather a technically straightforward high-altitude route that demands nothing beyond good fitness and the ability to walk in crampons – with the exception of the summit ridge. However, the Venediger is known for its numerous and deep crevasses, which are often barely visible after snowfall (even in summer!). Unroped travel on the glacier would be tantamount to suicide. Similarly dangerous, as with all high-altitude tours, are sudden weather changes or the onset of cloud and fog. A GPS device (with spare batteries!), or at least map and compass – and the ability to navigate with them – should always be packed. Anyone not confident in their own abilities should engage the services of a mountain guide.
Photos
